I had the smaller version 2-12nm of this wrench, which is a workhorse for me, and always works perfectly. I also have had lesser brand wrenches both in the low, and high torque range which are not reliable. I saw this one on sale and pounced. I prefer the Park Tool design because they are easy to set precisely, and they have a distinct click when appropriate torque reached. I have seen people destroy carbon frames doing this incorrectly.
I use this torque range on bottom brackets, cassettes, and brake rotors, which isn't something I do a ton of. I gave this wrench a high-value rating, despite its price because of the high quality and design, which is superior to others I have used. Just get the Park Tool and be done with it instead of buying junk you have to replace, like I did.
Is this any better or worse than a substitute that you could get at a local auto parts store? Depends on what your expectations are for longevity, and having it work well when you really need it. What Park Tool brings to the game is exactly that consistency. There's always a cheaper alternative when you're looking at Park, but what's the cost of damaged parts (maybe body parts) if you don't the torque you expected?
Use in conjunction with any of the Park tool Free Wheel removal tool products and you have an accurate, reliable method for your torque needs.
Case in Point. 75 mile ride through so. ca. hills. Cassette begins to sound like a popcorn machine. Problem Factory installed cassette loose. Sram Red 25-11 cog set. Answer TW-6 with the FR-5 to successfully torque Free Wheel lock ring accurately to 40nm.
A great torque wrench for the heavier duty work of suspension, crank bolts and the like. You definitely need the smaller, lower torque unit as well, so you're in for a good investment. However frames, particularly carbon frames, are VERY expensive to ruin.....so cheap in that light.